The only thing I wanted was a simple salad of mixed greens with a little shaved parmesan, and maybe a bit of fennel. That and a tumbler of gin and tonic would constitute my lunch. While all around me people were tucking into such hearty dishes with whorls of steam rising; cuts and joints all requiring attendant sauces and condiments and freshly ground cracked pepper. Back and forth trooped the army of waiters and water boys and bread girls, for this is a restaurant run with military precision and at Pastis lunch is the daily battle. Sometimes there are casualties.
We sat right on the front line at a prime booth I’ve recently learned is known by the staff as number 62. From this highly-coveted perch my friend and I were afforded a view of all who entered, and perhaps this is more important, all who entered were given the opportunity to see us. But today we shrank from the spotlight and would have much preferred some quiet little table in the back. We sat like yesterday's flowers, discarded and bereft, with only vague traces of glamour hanging about our tired limp limbs. Too many late nights- our constant complaint, yet with no viable solution to the problem we go on to fight another day, bowed and bloody, armed only with the protective shield of our sunglasses. I was already on my second glass and beginning to feel that I just might make it through the day when I caught the arrival of one of the chic-est women in New York. We waved at each other briefly in the polite manner of villagers who although they’ve never met, see each other daily. She was given a table a few feet away and my companion and I, now fully roused from our torpor, were instantly made aware of two things: a. she was either ignorant our uncaring of the anti-smoking law; and b. she was wearing fur. Our searching eyes picked out the incongruous though striking combination of cargo trousers worn with strappy Manolo Blahnik stilettos. We lavished whole minutes debating the true colour of her somewhat sheeny blouse- aubergine was the consensus, and then we marveled at what at first appeared to be a simple jean jacket sort of thing made from rose-coloured corduroy, an odd choice for our girl. It was when we removed our sunglasses that dawn set in. The little jacket thrown innocently and neglectedly over the back of her chair was in fact made of mink. Never the half-measure girl, she carried an oversized handbag made of crocodile. It lay at her extravagantly shod feet (loops of python round toes and ankle), rather like an exotic and much-pampered pet. She lunched alone quickly and simply, pausing every now and then to kiss in the general area of the many table hoppers who circled like vultures. And then as quickly as she had come she had disappeared, no doubt off to shoot and skin tomorrow’s ensemble.
Later on when the manageress walked us to the door we exchanged our usual pleasantries and I made my daily plea, ‘You always let Anne smoke, why can’t we?”
Note: Anne McNally often takes her lunch at Pastis and as the former sister-in-law of the owner has every right to do just as she pleases there. She truly is the chic
-est woman in town and I, for one would forgive her any misdemeanor.























