Posts archive for: March, 2007
  • This is a Spring

    ...that tiptoes in. It pauses, overcome by shyness, like a grandchild at the door, peeping in, ducking out of sight, giggling in the hallway. "Heather!" I want to cry, "I know you're out there. Come in!" And April slips into our arms. The maples do not come forth in green; they are flowering red, soft as slippers, in tassels like a jester's scepter. The flowering almond is pink, absurdly pink, little-girl pink, as pink as peppermint and cream. The apples display their milliner's scraps of ivory silk, rose-tinged. All the sleeping things wake up- primrose, baby iris, candytuft, blue phlox, the Scotch heather that had seemed dead beyond resurrection. The earth warms- you can smell it. feel it, crumble April in your hands...

    From the writings of James Jackson Kilpatrick

  • How to Make Chicken Stock, or 'A Colossal Waste of Time'

    There are two basic ways to make chicken stock. One method uses the leftover bones from a chicken carcass and vegetables, and takes several hours of slow cooking. The second method uses chicken backs and wings, braising them first, and takes about 1 hour to prepare. We prefer this second method as it yields a more rich, delicious stock. But the first method can be a great way to not let good bones go to waste.

    Method 1. Leftover Chicken Bones

    1 Put the leftover bones and skin from a chicken carcass into a large stock pot and cover with cold water. Add veggies like celery, onion, carrots, parsley.

    2 Add salt and pepper, about 1/2 tsp of salt, 1/4 tsp of pepper.

    3 Bring to a boil and reduce heat to bring the stock to a low simmer.

    4 Simmer uncovered at least 4 hours, occassionally skimming off the foam that comes to the surface.

    5 Remove the bones and strain the stock.

    6 If making stock for future use in soup you may want to reduce the stock by simmering a few hours longer to make it more concentrated and easier to store.

    Method 2. Chicken backs, wings, and legs.

    4 lbs of chicken backs, wings, and or legs that have been hacked with a cleaver into 2-inch pieces. You can ask your butcher to prepare the chicken pieces this way.
    1 large yellow onion, chopped.
    Olive oil
    2 quarts of boiling water
    2 teaspoons of salt
    2 bay leaves

    1 Heat 1 Tbsp of olive oil in a large stock pot. Add one chopped onion. Sauté until softened and slightly colored - 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

    2 Add half of the chicken pieces to the pot. Sauté until no longer pink, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer cooked chicken to bowl with onions. Sauté the rest of the chicken the same way. Return onion and chicken pieces to the pot. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken releases its juices, about 20 minutes.

    3 While the chicken pieces are cooking, fill a large tea kettle with 2 quarts of water, bring to a boil.

    4 After the chicken pieces have been cooking for 20 minutes, raise the heat level to high, add the 2 quarts of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of salt, 2 bay leaves. Return to simmer, then cover and barely simmer for about 20 minutes.

    5 Strain broth and discard solids. Broth can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for several months.

    This method comes from The Best Recipe cookbook by Cook's Illustrated. They got it from In Pursuit of Flavor, by Edna Lewis. This makes a truly flavorful stock.

    Note about the Fat
    I've seen a lot of newer cookbooks advocate the skimming of the fat from the stock. We prefer the traditional method of letting the fat settle in a layer on top of the stock as it cools. This way, the fat acts as a protective layer against bacteria, which is found in the air. The stock will last longer if you keep the fat layer on it. Just lift up the layer of fat and remove the stock when you want to use it. Every few days, bring the stock to a simmer for 10 minutes and let it cool, again with the fat forming a protective layer. Your stock can be stored in the refrigerator and used for up to a couple of weeks this way.

    The above taken from one of the best-selling cookery books by one of today's leading chefs.

    Or you can do it my way:

    ...because life's too short.

  • Why Don't You...

    Make chicken soup. Drizzle a bit of olive oil in your dutch oven (a large stock pot will do) and throw in some bits of chicken until brown on both sides and cooked through. Add stock to cover and all the chopped carrots, onions and celery you care for. Throw in some green beens, potatoes, peas, what you will, a bit of salt and pepper and a bay leaf while you're at it. Simmer for at least an hour and serve over rice. This is my own recipe and I confess, it's always a hit. With only a few modifications (bacon drippings instead of oil and a cup or so of wine along with the stock) this delicious soup becomes Coq au Vin.Red Dutch Oven by Mario Batali

    Say goodbye to the winter blahs and jet off to sunny Miami Beach and rediscover (or introduce yourself) to this jewel of an isle studded with towering palm trees and paved with white sand. Where even in this, the deepest of winter, the temperature remains steady at 'balmy', and the views are absolutely gorgeous. miami beachnorth views

    Start planning now to replace all those platform and high-heeled wedgies you've been collecting. This season all the talk is of simpler things and flats. Artsy ballet slippers and metallic thongs. Kitten heels and trainers worn with knee-length skirts. I know, I'm as gutted as you are. But this from Balenciaga's spring line made me smile.
    Balenciaga Sport

    March 2007

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